Copenhagen Fashion Week's summer edition is usually known for its warm, sunlit runways and pleasant outdoor catwalks. This week, however, the experience was quite different as gusty winds tugged at umbrellas lining the front row. Nonetheless, the rain didn't deter the fashion festivities as the city's most packed show lineup to date carried on, unfazed by the weather.
There was no shortage of dynamic performances: Ervin Latimer showcased his eponymous show as his drag alter ego, Anna Konda. Nicklas Skovgaard made his inaugural appearance with artist Britt Liberg delivering a solo performance, while the Sunflower duo, Ulrik Pedersen and Alan Blond, featured Danish legends Laid Back performing center stage.
Moreover, summer collections from favorites like The Garment, Ganni showcased a diverse array of summer fashion, ranging from sweet to street, offering a preview of what we might be wearing if not for the need to huddle under weatherproof jackets. Despite the obstacles, the fashion week proceeded without a hitch.
In this ongoing recap, we're going to highlight the standout moments of Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S 2024.
Ganni's creative director, Ditte Reffstrup, has ventured into the realm of artificial intelligence, albeit with some initial reservations. The journey began when Nicolaj Reffstrup, her husband and co-founder of Ganni, proposed using AI to design a Ganni collection for experimentation purposes. The results were surprisingly good, which initially alarmed Ditte. However, after reflecting on it with her team, she realized that it's human nature to be resistant to change and unfamiliar concepts. Although the AI-generated collection wasn't ultimately used, Ditte collaborated with Cecilie Waagner Falkenstrøm, the founder of ARTificial Mind, who specializes in infusing tech-art with human elements. Together, they developed a unique set and soundtrack for the show.
The runway featured innovative pieces, such as leather-like dresses made from Oleatex, a material derived from olive oil waste, and sequins created from Algreen, a process that converts seaweed into plastic-free embellishments. Additionally, Ganni showcased its continued partnership with New Balance and gave a sneak peek of an upcoming inclusive capsule collection in collaboration with model Paloma Elsesser.
Creating essential wardrobe staples while keeping collections fresh and seasonal can be a challenging task. Yet, The Garment's designers, Sophia Roe and Charlotte Eskildsen, managed to do just that, following their successful winter show in January. Their latest collection features versatile long duster coats and well-worn leather jackets, perfect for year-round wear. However, it's the airy cotton pieces that are likely to be the stars of the summer wardrobe. The collection includes camisoles with romantic shoulder ties, open-knit designs, and flowing cotton shirt dresses that effortlessly resist trends and provide a breezy touch to warm weather.
Backstage, Eskildsen discussed their exploration of colors, which led to the adoption of an innovative printing technique that combines organic cotton with pineapple seeds.
Ervin Latimer's latest show, titled "Position is Power," made a bold statement with a focus on hosiery. Drawing inspiration from male archetypes of the New York Stock Exchange, Latimer opened the show as his drag persona Anna Konda, strutting to "Hey Big Spender" and making a powerful impact on the runway. The subsequent collection could be characterized as a playful twist on corporate attire, infused with a flair for the fabulous.
Highlights included shirts adorned with a waterfall of Bic pens, suits worn with reversed suspenders, and trousers with tassels that appeared as if they had been snagged in an office shredder, cleverly constructed from repurposed company invoices. The T-shirts featuring the slogan "Money, powder, glory" further underscored the subversive theme.
In a post-show interview, Lattimier revealed that he aimed to explore how such attire can not only convey one's status but also shed light on the blurred lines between reality and illusion within that world. Particularly noteworthy were the open-knit designs with zigzag intarsia, reminiscent of the stock-market crash of 1998. "It represents the notion that as you lose more, you become more vulnerable," Latimer explained with a smile.
Copenhagen Fashion Week never fails to make a statement, and it's not just about the runway shows. The streets of Copenhagen transform into a veritable catwalk, showcasing an eclectic mix of bold prints, avant-garde silhouettes, and daring accessories. As attendees dart from one show to another, their unique ensembles catch the eye of photographers and fashion enthusiasts alike. From the striking contrast of edgy leather jackets paired with flowy, floral dresses, to the unexpected harmony of chunky sneakers and tailored suits, Copenhagen's street style scene serves as a testament to the city's commitment to creativity and self-expression. The mix of high-end designer pieces and effortlessly chic Scandinavian minimalism creates a visual feast that captivates and inspires, celebrating fashion as both art and personal expression. When paired with the images, these street style snapshots will capture the essence of Copenhagen Fashion Week, highlighting the city's vibrant and innovative fashion culture.
